1) you must edit the file CSS
blog(yousite)....../wp-content/themes/mytheme/style.css
you can pretty much change all the grafic you need from that file... i have totaly changed several blog css in order to be integrated in the rest of the website (if any)
2) of course the file CSS proprieties must be writable and it should be by default, it sound trange to me that you can not write the file. 
anyway (in case) change the file proprieties and set them using chmod 777... you can use a FTP uploader like cuteftp or similar to change the chmod values
3) you can also help yourself and modify the PHP files inside /wp-content/themes/mytheme/ the of wordpress depending on how confident you are.... example I have modified this mainpage http://artphotoasia.net/blog/ and inserted the comment box directly in the mainpage....
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Last edited by ArtphotoasiA; 12-17-2009 at 06:12 PM..
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